Building a Single Bar Canoe Stabilizer


It is general knowledge for anyone who ever goes to kayaking for the first time they are taught how to capsize in an aim that if somebody ever tips over on themselves, they will not drown. While it is sometimes useful to capsize in little adventures, capsizing for canoe owners may not be an option since canoe may contain some essential equipment. This can cause significant loss.

For this reason of minimizing capsizing, outriggers are just perfect when it comes to stabilizing the canoes. While some outriggers are costly and cannot be afforded, it is possible for one to make their homemade canoe stabilizers. They will save a lot of money. One will not only enjoy the satisfaction and pleasure of building their stabilizers but also will be able to tailor made the stabilizer that fits perfectly their needs which may vary from one person to another. Whether one is going for a fishing trip or just taking an adventurous ride on a lake or slow river, an kayak outrigger will give stability and create a great sense of security and safety. This will reduce worry and produce some relaxation.

Depending on the method settled on the material required to build a DIY canoe outrigger. They make include a couple of 45 degrees’ joints and 90 degrees’ joints, PVC pipe of one inch and 12 feet length, four large, empty coke bottles, a couple of T-joints and four crab buoys.

We shall explore a simple single bar stabilizer which runs across the canoe from one side to the other and stabilizer hangs on each side.

The PVC pipe is laid perpendicular to the boat axis at its widest point.  The pipe should at least run about 12 to 17 inches over the kayak on both sides. However, the is tradeoff between the desired length of which the tube goes over. If the stabilizer has longer arms, it yields more stability as well as how the canoe can maneuver back and forth as well as sideways. However, this makes the arm more flexible and hence more fragile.

To the PVC pipe ends are then added a 90 degrees elbow which is done to point downward to the water. Two short PVC pipes, just to reach the water level when the canoe is launched.  The T-joints are then attached to the end of short PVC pipes. The joints are fitted and strengthened with water-resistant glue. The swim noodles, cut slit, are then inserted with T-joints. The noodles are then added into other four more short PVC pipes. All these are then fastened with zipping ties.

The buoy is built using two large coke bottles and cutting off their bottom parts. Then these bottle tops are added over to the horizontal short PVC pipes.


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